eating indy

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  • garfield 002
  • El Arada 011
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  • Some sort of objet d' art in the main dining room
  • taste of havana 005
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Lynn’s Cafe 3748 Lafayette Rosd

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Well it seems like we are off on the right foot again. We stopped at a place that knows how to cook. It’s a small and modestly furnished place that is very neat and tidy and has a super clean kitchen in view of the dining area. Pat and I had a friend join us and while we waited we chatted up with the owner. She is a super nice lady and is also a student. She is in the last year of her Masters of Divinity degree from the Christian Theological Seminary. They are open early and serve breakfast all day. They close at 2 PM during the week and have Soul Food Sundays. During the week in addition to their regular menu they offer daily specials. The specials today were breaded and fried chicken wings or Turkey Tips, both were $8.50 and came with 2 sides and choice of roll or corn bread.

Now I am sure you are wondering what is a turkey tip. Well they are de-boned turkey ribs. As to what a turkey rib is. I don’t know. The only info I have is from a sales rep several years ago. He offered that they were not formed nor processed. They were honest pieces of white meat cut by a special method that has been patented. That was the first and last time I ever thought of them until today. Lynn offered us a taste and they were really good. Moist and tender with a light BBQ sauce. On the inter-net someone did say they were pressured cook prior to shipment. I don’t know. I could not detect any signs of overcooking. A lean piece of muscle meat will invariably be chewy if it is over cooked. That was not the case here. The included link might be helpful

http://www.google.com/patents/US6280311

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I ordered corn bread, sweet potatoes and greens to go with my turkey. At the first bite I was impressed with how the tips tasted. An individual piece was tasty but a plate full was greater than the sum of its individual pieces. In either event they made be a believer. The sides matched the center of the plate well. The greens were cooked long enough to exude a nice liquor and developed a great flavor. The sweet potatoes were of the fresh variety and were whipped like russets. The candy like sweetness was a great foil to the slight bitterness of the greens and the slight smokiness of the meat. The cornbread was well made as well. It did seem a touch old but that was hardly a deal breaker.

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Our guest decided on a grilled chicken sandwich on whole wheat with fries. We didn’t make her write a review, but she cleaned her plate and remarked it was all very good.

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After lunch Lynn gave us a piece of chocolate cake to share. Three layers of dark deliciousness.

 

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So the west side scores another one. This place is a definite keeper. Good food and a great lady running the joint. Remember Soul Food Sunday.

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I know this is a lousy shot but that is one great looking stove. Double ovens, 8 eyes and a flat top. A beauty.

Lynn's Cafe on Urbanspoon

Lets talk sauce…

Like any good fella with OCD I try to be thorough. In addition to trying to understand the science and mechanics of cooking I have been fascinated by the history of food, particularly sauces.

Over the weekend I engaged in a conversation with a blogging buddy about Sauce Bolognese. She commented that the only must haves are chicken livers and cream. My contention was that pancetta and dairy were the only essentials. So. That tete’ de tete’ got me to thinking. Maybe I was wrong. Most of my info was from long ago readings and conversations I had with older cooks. I went back through my older books ( the ones I have still ) and the notebooks I could find and the inter net. What I determined was there is a whole bunch of disparate recipes for this one classic sauce from Northern Italy.

First thing I must say is Italy is just like most nations. Authentic cooking is not a recipe card you find from Betty Crocker. It covers a big area with different climates and different resources.

Back on topic. As far as I can tell the first written recipe of this sauce was by Pellegino Artusi in a book he authored in 1891. Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Living Well. Sometime in the 1980’s the Italian Academy of Cuisine translated and published a copy in the US. That is how I discovered it. I had a copy, but lost it. Amazon has it for $35. My copy cost maybe 8 bucks. I think he just called for minced beef and pork and a sofrito. The sofrito is a mixture of fine diced onion, celery and carrot. Culinary folks would call it a mirepoix. I have made this sauce a bunch of times. For personal use and for dinner service at various joints. For the most part my take on this comes from contemporary cookbooks and anecdote. Meaning I have talked with a bunch of cooking folks, both pro and amateur. This weekend I did peruse the ether world and determined that there is a bunch of different ways to build this dish.

So to the “bottom” line. Northern Italy is about beef and pig and dairy. So dairy should be a component to Bolognese. Some say cream, some say whole milk. Pancetta is almost a must, in my opinion. Beef and veal is considered appropriate, but also ground pork. The important thing is the cutting of the stuff. The pancetta should be 1/4 diced, the other meat should be minced as well as the veggies. The whole idea is to meld all the ingredients into a seamless taste. The fat used varies from olive oil to butter to lard. The pancetta should be crisp as should be the sofrito. After the minced meat is added a good beef stock as well as a good wine should be added and reduced a bit at a time. This sauce ain’t no 30 minute meal. The tomato is a secondary yet essential ingredient. The amount is small compared to some Italian recipes. You can use canned paste or peel and seed and reduce your own. As for the dairy that is added at the end. As for seasoning nutmeg is almost obligatory anything else is up to you. When it comes to the liver that is really an enrichment component. Liver is a rich addition to any sauce. The use is similar to the use of anchovy. In either event the livers should be cooked independent of the sauce. For what it is worth. I don’t always use chicken livers, but when I do I poach them in the same stock or wine I am using. Then either pulverize them in a processor or, if you want to be rustic use a mortar and pestle with a bit of poaching liquid and coarse salt.

Well I think I have abused this moment. You can find different recipes everywhere on the inter net. So go for it.

The Garfield Park Eatery & Coffee 2627 Shelby Street

Well the Garfield Inn is gone, no more, kaput. In its place is an eatery/coffee shop. The new owners have done a major remodel of the old tavern. From a well-worn bar to a cozy little parlor with bright walls and comfortable seating.

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The old bar is still in use and behind the bar where there once were bottles of booze now sets an impressive array of coffee machines and the various supplies necessary for today’s coffee service. You order at the bar and they bring your food out to you. By the register they have big jars with cookies for $1.25 each, as well as other confections. The cookies we tried were pretty good. Mine was a chocolate chip that had a bunch of other stuff in there,like coconut and raisins. As you can see the menu is rather small and they don’t offer hamburgers. Although they did have one as a special, with fries.

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Pat ordered a breaded tenderloin, with fries for $7.95

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I ordered the special. Pasta Bolognese ( $7.45 ) and a cup soup ( German Sausage ) for $3.25. Unfortunately it was very bland. It was a brothy soup with potato, red beans, onion and potato as well as sausage and cabbage. First thing the amount of sausage was rather small, as was the rest of the ingredients. The idea sounded fine. The execution was way off.

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As for the pasta, to me it didn’t fare much better than the soup. A Bolognese is a classic. It is characterized by the use of chopped onion, carrot and celery (a mirepoix). I think what makes it a classic is the melding of the veggies with a red sauce and the reduction of beef stock and wine in the sauce. Not to mention the judicious use of nutmeg and milk or cream at the finish. What I was served was a multi colored rotini covered with a hamburger and tomato sauce with a definitely tart and tangy after taste. So guys lunch didn’t go over real big with me.

I think their idea of a coffee shop is very viable for this area. They offer free WiFi and all the espresso and latte stuff that made Starbucks rich. And even though I am no longer able to drink coffee I can still appreciate the idea of a good coffee shop. And the prices appear to be more than fair. So hopefully they’ll get the wrinkles worked out. Maybe breakfast is their forte. They scratch make the biscuits and gravy and on week ends they serve breakfast all day long. If I lived closer I’d try breakfast. I would pass on the pasta though.

The Garfield Eatery & Coffee on Urbanspoon

Javier’s Hacienda Mexican Cuisine 2444 E. Washington St.

Well Javier is back in the kitchen. For many years he ran the best Mexican kitchen in the city. El Sol. A couple of years ago Javier left, and then unexpectedly the joint closed. Well now he’s back. In the same building but with a different name.

A few years back he redid the entire dining room. Using hand-made chairs and tables from Mexico he made the whole joint resemble an open air plaza. Complete with a fountain.

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The salsa is fresh and the chips are warm, but the guacamole is a show stopper. He offers it three ways. Traditional with tomatoes etc., a personalized version with Mexican oregano and the 1800. This recipe is more than 200 years old. Avocado, garlic, fire roasted Serrano chiles and salt. Hand ground in a stone mortar and pestle. It is more than good.

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Their web site is still under construction so I scanned their menu. This I will add to Urban Spoon. Their lunch menu shows up on their Face page. I urge you to check out the menu. For folks who want authentic. Here it is.

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Pat’s Cochinta Pibil was $8.95 with black beans, and sweet plantains. And of course flour tortillas.

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Having never tried Javier’s tamales before that is what I ordered, from the lunch menu. Three tamales, chicken or beef and black beans and salad. Again $8.95. I opted for the pig. Three good-sized tamales, robust and savory with nice strands of meat. The beans were really good, and the rice was  tasty and colorful just a mite dry. I really enjoy the salad they add. Spring mix with a light vinaigrette and pickled onions.

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I am surprised that this post is as short as it is, considering my natural tendency to ramble. Well here it is. I am sure it doesn’t come as a surprise to folks that remember El Sol. Javier is back and he is as good as always. If nothing else you owe it to yourself to try the 1800 guacamole. It is that good.

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Javier's Hacienda Mexican Cuisine on Urbanspoon

 

Grub House 1953 N. College Ave.

Well all good things must come to an end. For the last several weeks we have had a pretty good run with some pretty good eats. Today I made a solo trip to The Grub House, a joint I heard about just a few days ago. I can’t say the food was terrible,nor can I say the food was wonderful. Neither really bad. Neither really good. What is left. Mediocre. Sorry guys but the food just didn’t grab me.

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The place is neat as a pin, attractive and with a great mural on the wall. I am afraid this picture doesn’t do it justice. My little orphan Nikon broke last week and I am not sure he can be saved. So I had to use my phone. The phone with the camera that hates me. Notice how the smoke from the stack wafts up to the vent on the bulk head. Brilliant.

It appears as though they don’t do much creative cooking. The menu is heavy on fried food. I have no issue with that. People dig it, and it sells. The “issue” I have is it appears to be all IQF stuff pulled from the freezer and dropped in a fryer.

You order at a counter and they bring you the food. I ordered biscuits and gravy and a Jimmy Burger. Don’t laugh at me. They serve breakfast all day and I wanted to sample their biscuits and gravy.

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What can I say. The biscuits were from a can and the gravy was bland. I ate it all. As I said, it wasn’t terrible food it just wasn’t really good food. It was only 3 bucks.

I also ordered a Jimmy burger. That is an all beef patty with grilled onion,cheese, lettuce tomato and pickle and a Grub House sauce. And that comes with a side and a beverage for $7.

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As you can see I opted for onion rings. The side options are fries, rings or okra. Since they all come in a bag the choice is possibly moot. The burger is a standard 4 to 1 patty, cooked on a flat griddle, topped with onions and cheese and served on a small sesame seeded grocery store bun. The best thing was the cold set. A nice piece of green leaf lettuce, a good slice of a 5×5 tomato and some decent pickles. Of course the Grub House sauce tasted a wee bit like 1000 Island sauce. But that’s okay, it makes me nostalgic for a Big Mac.

So that is my opinion of The Grub House. Will I go back? Probably not. If I lived closer I probably would. Come on. Some times folks need some fried grub. And only a 35 pound fat Fryolator can do it justice.

So good luck Grub House. You apparently fill a need in your area. I just would hope that the people who saw the possibilities in your mural can see the possibilities in your food.

Grub House on Urbanspoon

El Arado 1063 Virginia Avenue.

El Arada 001Pat and Fran tried this place out on Labor Day, and they both liked it. Good food, good prices and cheap beer. Actually I was a little apprehensive about the joint because, frankly the reviews on Urbanspoon were not too positive. I don’t rely entirely upon reviews to decide on what joint to try, but if the majority of comments are negative you probably should take notice. As I mentioned in an extraneous posting regarding reviews I checked for dates. One was June this year and the remaining negative tales were in 2013. The listing showed a few positive reviews in 2012 and 2011. So maybe the issue is time sensitive. Restaurants are not static. They develop and grow in time. And since they are all built around people you never know what to expect. My job is to visit a joint with my buddy Pat. Eat a lunch and give our thoughts on the food and service. We do so in a matter of fact way. We eat, we write you decide.

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The place is a pretty good size. It has a few hand painted murals that fit a Mexican theme, and the surroundings and furniture are pretty comfortable. As soon as we walked in we were approached by a server/ host that directed us to a table. In a few minutes we had our water and chips and salsa.

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Now I found this salsa to be excellent. Fresh tomatoes, jalapeno and cilantro. I also enjoyed that they offered yellow tortilla chips. Not the red,white and blue chips that seem to be so common in some joints.

On Thursday they offer the Super Donkey burro for $7.99. Now this is a huge flour tortilla stuffed with steak or chicken, beans,rice,pico- de Gallo, guacamole, lettuce, tomato and sour cream. Now that is one big boy. You have your choice of 3 sauces. Green, red or cheese. Pat ordered an altered chicken Super Donkey, with cheese sauce.

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Since Pat ordered chicken, I ordered steak with red and green sauce. The tomatillo sauce was spicy and definitely on point. They make it in-house, and it definitely hit the spot. The steak was a little chewy but with all the stuff going on it was definitely worth ordering. The red chile was warm and comforting. All in all a very tasty combination.El Arada 008

Even though neither one of us could finish our burros we decided to share a sopaipilla. Now in New Mex and the part of Old Mex I lived the sopaipilla I have eaten have been the big fluffy pillows. The kind you tear and add honey to. This sopa was flat,like a tostada. Sprinkled with cinnamon sugar, shot with honey and drizzled with chocolate sauce. Cut in four pieces and topped with whipped cream. Wow. It was good. Not what I expected. But good. And the crazy thing was $1.99. You can also get it with ice cream.

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So. There you have it, our review,our opinion of El Arada. We think it is worth trying. Bon Appetite.

El Arado on Urbanspoon

Jiallo’s African-Caribbean Cuisine 4202 W. 56th Street

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This place is in a strip mall next to 3 in 1 Restaurant we reviewed some weeks back. At that time we put it on our list. I did my due diligence in research, considering Pat’s issues with onion. I told him it was doable. Fortunately he agreed. Let’s have a round of applause for the self-proclaimed “…plain kinda’ guy.” stepping out of his comfort zone and trying something different.

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The space is a good size, clean and well-appointed with comfortable and attractive furnishings. If you came to be entertained by the decor or “ambience” then you came to the wrong joint.

Jiallo’s is about food, in an attractive setting, serviced in a gracious manner. Our server was just that; gracious. I neglected to ask her name but when Pat told her about his onion issue she made repeated trips to the kitchen to get all the details. She was very knowledgeable about the menu and more than happy to answer our questions.

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They offer 2 different types of rice with their lunch specials. White rice or red beans and rice. The white rice is a small-grained African rice cooked down. Nothing fancy just a nice rice bed. The red beans and rice is a Jasmine rice cooked in red beans liquor with thyme, rosemary, red beans and onion added. So Pat opted for the Jerk Chicken with white rice and plaintains for $8.95.jiallo 004

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I wanted to keep it simple so I ordered the Curry Chicken with red bean rice and plantains for $8.95.

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Now this dish was crazy. If you see a little “ghost” in the pic that is the steam coming off the dish. I could see it in the view finder. In my dish they used legs. They “Frenched” the bones of the drumsticks. That means they cut away anything on the leg, below the knob of meat. Then they chopped off the bulbous end of the drum sick; in order to expose any marrow to the cooking liquid. In this case a curry sauce. The sauce was not a spectacular curry sauce it was a good curry sauce. Both sweet and slightly spicy with a wondrous aroma. The chicken appeared to have been braised in the sauce,and they were perfectly cooked. Fall off the bone tender with a great flavor. Marry that with the red rice and beans and the sweet plantains and you have a winner. Every time.

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On Urban spoon this particular joint has over 200 check ins with a 90% like. The only bad comments has been about the “slowness”. I noticed that on the reviews and our Super Server said the same thing. She is the only server that works there. Lunch and dinner. So…for what it is worth. Folks take a look around any joint you enter. If it is busy and the wait staff seems light. Reevaluate.

Well all I can add is this joint has some good food. I have to go back. They have some stuff I haven’t eaten yet.

Jiallo's African-Caribbean Cuisine on Urbanspoon

The North End Barbeque and Moonshine

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This is without a doubt the fanciest BBQ joint I have ever been to. Everything was new and bright and quite attractive. For a moment I thought we might have stumbled into the wrong place.

Some sort of objet d' art in the main dining room

Some sort of objet d’ art in the main dining room

The light fixtures were really cool. You can see one in the above picture. You can tell that pros set this joint up. From the table placement to the bar every thing was on point. After we were seated the Hostess let me check out the smokers in the kitchen.

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The exhaust fans are located right behind the outside wall. Also it appears as though it has a digital temp readout. Really nice units. Back in the day I thought an Alto Shaam was high tech. Well enough of the HGTV. Our server was Laura. Delightful and very knowledgeable. I ordered a cup of chili; a cup of red to start.

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I thought it was very good. A little spicy, no beans and no pasta; which is unusual in the Midwest. They used cubes of smoked brisket and a touch of house bacon. It had the consistency of Texas red; as I remember it. They also threw in a few cubes of fat. I like to think it was done intentionally not accidentally. Fat adds flavor. Of course my Cardiologist might disagree; but I don’t take him to lunch.

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As you can see from the menu the food choices are very solid and the prices are quite reasonable.

Pat decided on a brisket entree with a choice of two sides for $12. When he discovered that the slaw had no onion he picked that with cornbread. After we ordered Laura brought out the Sauce caddy, all made in house.

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The sauce options are pretty basic. A Kansas City molasses sweet, a Carolina mustard vinegar, a “Standard”, a little sweet and savory and a Texas spicy. Laura suggested a mix of KC and Carolina. Which worked like a charm for me. The other two were a little non descript. I really like a Carolina sauce sometimes and I definitely have a thing for molasses. Well back to Pat.north end 008

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As you can see Pat’s coleslaw was a side with some assembly required. I guess he didn’t want to assemble. Since he ordered the brisket I ordered the pulled pork with Collards and Mac& cheese for $10.

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The pork was straight up good. Nice flavor and good smoke. My first thought was the dry rub wasn’t as assertive as I would like,but upon a bit of reflection I thought with the 4 sauces maybe an assertive rub might not be the best. I am still pondering. One thing for sure Laura hit the pig on the head with her sauce mix suggestion. The KC and the Carolina together was a great taste. As for the sides I had mixed feelings. The greens were quite good not as much pot liquor as I would like but good none the less. Now for the mac & cheese. I believe they used a Cellentani, a spiral pasta that holds sauce well. As for the sauce it was pretty good it just isn’t what I had anticipated.They added a “jam” which I believe is a mix of KC sauce and spices which did add another layer of flavor but I prefer my mac a bit thicker with a cheesy roux and a buttery brown top. No harm no foul I’ll just keep that in mind next time.

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Even though I had to get a go box for some of my pig I thought we should share a slice of Sugar Cream pie. It was unlike any other Sugar Cream pies I’ve had. It appeared that the crust was a crumb crust, not a pastry. Also the filling had almost a carmelized top to it. The pie was rather hard to cut; me thinks it was over cooked. No matter, the filling was delicious. I forgot to take a shot until it was almost done. Here is the ravaged result.north end 015

So don’t think that this place is too cool for Que. It isn’t. I read one reviewer who thought they took BBQ too seriously. Well it is BBQ. I really don’t know how anyone can be too serious about BBQ. After all it is All American. Seriously if you want some good Q you should give this joint a try. I’m not saying this is the best Q in the city. I am saying it is really good and it is run by pros. Also everyone that works here is really nice and it is a really pretty place.

 

 

The North End Barbecue and Moonshine on Urbanspoon

Taste of Havana 810 Broad Ripple Ave.

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Most joints have a Cuban sandwich. In one version or another.What you need first is a long roll. Call it a hoagie, baguette, or a pistolette and you are good to go. Now stuff it with a cooked pork, ham, Swiss cheese and pickles; slather on yellow mustard and. Voila; an El Cubano. I have had several in many different places and at many different times. While they have all been good sandwiches I never considered them legit. Because none had real Cuban bread. Well guess what? Taste of Havana has the real deal. The bread has a flat almost lacquered finish on the outside. When you bite into it the bread offers a little resistance and then you break into a flaky interior. It reminds me of a thick bottom pie crust. A delicious way to enclose a sandwich.

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After the original encounter with the bread pastry you come to the stuff inside. They roast the pork in-house. They prepare and cook the ham on premise as well. So you won’t encounter the injected deli style “lunch meat” used by some joints. In addition to my sandwich I ordered a bowl of black bean soup for $4.25. They offer their sandwiches in 3 sizes. I believe it is small, medium and large. The size difference is all about the weight of the meat. The amount of bread stays the same. I got the mini for $6.50.

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The soup was as straight forward and tasty as the sandwich. I also like the fact that they didn’t “dress” the soup with sherry, onions or sour cream like some joints do. I talked with the owner for quite a while. He gave me a taste of his yellow seasoned rice. He even gave me a pack of Sazon. the seasoning he uses. He used to use Bijol, also called the poor man’s saffron. He changed to the Sazon because in addition unlike the Bijol it had a tiny touch of saffron. But the greatest score was his Picadillo. That was one of the specials today. He gave me a taste. This was straight up delicious. The aroma was rich and deep. A complex flavor of wine, tomato and olives. Just to start. This is something he has on the board weekly. So I will be back.

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I had a super good lunch and a wonderful time. This Father and Daughter team do a wonderful job, and are the most gracious pair I believe I have ever encountered. They are a great addition to Broad Ripple and I wish them all the best.

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Taste of Havana Cuban Sandwiches on Urbanspoon

http://www.tasteofhavanaindy.com/

Flat Water Restaurant 832 E. Westfield Blvd.

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I thought I’d open with a shot of Canada Geese, to set the mood. As you can tell we went to eat in Broad Ripple,right on the canal. This property is a prime location and one of the nicest joints to sit outside. After the pizza joint,Bazbeaux, moved to a bigger location a new restaurant took over. I am pretty sure it wasn’t called Flat Water. I can’t remember the name,but they only had a beer and wine license and they had some pretty good food. This incarnation has a full license and is carrying on the practice of selling some good food.

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I mean how could you not enjoy sitting on a deck and watching ducks and geese “frolicking” in the water? Throw in some good eats and a couple of Margaritas for dessert and you have great lunch time.

I didn’t scan the menu,as they have a website. However the menu on the site is not current, Sorry about that.

Their lunch special was a buffalo tenderloin. A breaded tenderloin smothered with hot sauce and topped with blue cheese crumbles. That was $9. Pat decided on the menu tender for the same price. For a $1.50 up charge he got a side of grilled asparagus. Before Pat gives his take on his sandwich I want to add my 2 cents. That breaded tenderloin was the prettiest piece of breaded pork I think I have seen. Also I tried a piece of asparagus and it was great. Tender crisp with a nice light char. Good job.

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In sympathy with our dining companions out in the canal I tried the house smoked salmon sandwich. It was lightly hot smoked. That is to say it was cooked on a grill with wood chips added so the fire cooked it and the light smoke was a tasty hitch hiker. I would have liked it a little less cooked but that wasn’t enough to rate anything less than very good and well made.

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Since it was well crafted I shall engage in a little “nit-picking”. The bread, while good was too much club for the salmon. The spinach and other mixed greens was a nice touch just maybe too abundant. The bacon was a nice addition. Adding both texture and a different level of smokiness. The avocado really got lost. Salmon is pretty assertive and the poor thing got overwhelmed. It did impart a bit of creaminess but maybe something with more cojones might accomplish the job better. But that is just one guy’s opinion. In either event it was an excellent bite and value at $11.

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For the adult beverage part of the review they have a nice selection of draft beers and they feature PBR and Miller High Life cans for $2.50. They also offer Margarita specials on Thursday. Their house version for $ 5 and one featuring El Jimador and Cointreau for 6 bucks. Well I opted for the top shelf. It was as good as it sounds.

So in summation I really don’t think you can go wrong with Flat Water. Good eats, good drinks and a wonderful deck overlooking the canal. Also the service is good as well Thanks Gary we appreciate the job you did.flatwater 012

Flatwater Restaurant on Urbanspoon

http://flatwaterbroadripple.com/

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